The more common variety of modern lanyard, though, is much closer to its simpler ancestors - something that keeps a small important personal item firmly in place, so that you don't drop or lose it. They can be made out of almost anything - nylon, silk, leather, and all kinds of cord, either braided or unbraided. I have several I use for keys - they are really handy when you are walking or hiking for fitness and don't want to carry a lot of stuff in a bag. If only I could find a few Malted Milk Lunch Tablets to put in my pocket, I'd be ready for anything; I'll skip the Improved Boy Scout Leggings, though.
The documentation research of my learning journey during PA & DCE Core Elective Studies. The area that I will be researching in to is Military uniform, in particular Hussar uniform. My particular interest is in period garments, so my research will be mainly tailored towards 18th and 19th century garments. I will be looking in to the quailties, fabrics and construction methods of uniforms through the ages as well as documentation of the construction process of my chosen garment.
Tuesday, 23 April 2013
Lanyards
The more common variety of modern lanyard, though, is much closer to its simpler ancestors - something that keeps a small important personal item firmly in place, so that you don't drop or lose it. They can be made out of almost anything - nylon, silk, leather, and all kinds of cord, either braided or unbraided. I have several I use for keys - they are really handy when you are walking or hiking for fitness and don't want to carry a lot of stuff in a bag. If only I could find a few Malted Milk Lunch Tablets to put in my pocket, I'd be ready for anything; I'll skip the Improved Boy Scout Leggings, though.
Interesting info on Prince Williams wedding uniform
The princes wedding outfit was made of heat absorbing material - a heavy woollen material - so that he didn't faint in the abbey.
The uniform featured the Irish Guards' distinctive arrangement of buttons in groups of four. It was made from scratch from pure wool melton, with real gold spun on to the material.
The gold-plated buttons are made using a hand press, and the collar is reinforced with buckram (a coarse linen cloth) to ensure it remains stiff.
The Prince commissioned military tailors Kashket and Partners to make his scarlet Irish Guards colonel's uniform - but they added sweat pads under the arms, material to absorb the heat, and reduced the padding after the Royal groom expressed fears that the temperature in Westminster Abbey would make him sweat profusely, or even pass out.
Company chairman Russell Kashket said: 'He was very aware of the heat factor in the Abbey because he knew all the lights would make it very hot.
'We worked together to get the look he wanted, while making sure he didn't pass out in front of two billion people. We added micro sweat pads under the arms and used less padding.'The uniform featured the Irish Guards' distinctive arrangement of buttons in groups of four. It was made from scratch from pure wool melton, with real gold spun on to the material.
The gold-plated buttons are made using a hand press, and the collar is reinforced with buckram (a coarse linen cloth) to ensure it remains stiff.
The midnight-blue frock coat that William wore when driving from Buckingham Palace is made from the same type of wool. Mr Kashket said: 'You couldn't see it, but the collar and cuffs are all hand-embroidered, like Kate's dress - and just as detailed.'
The oldest part of the Group, Firmin & Sons was established in 1655 which makes them older than the Bank of England!
Kashket & Partners, Firmin & Sons, and E C Snaith & Son are all members of Firmin House owned by the Kashket family. Kashket & Partners are the current exclusive supplier to UK Ministry of Defence on contract DC3A/3003 for supply of Ceremonial Garments. Firmin & Sons are the current exclusive supplier to UK Ministry of Defence on contracts DC3B/3520 and DC3B/3503 for supply of metal badges, buttons, helmets and cuirasses. Bernard Kashket MBE, the senior Master Tailor is sharing his skill and experience of more than 50 years to teach their team of young aspiring tailors at the North London facility. Firmin house products can be seen in museums and galleries all over the world. For example, a Uniform manufactured by Firmin worn by Admiral Lord Nelson can still be seen at the National Maritime Museum, Greenwich.
Firmin specilises in uniforms and accoutrements for distinguished senior officers such as Admirals and Generals. The Group manufactures many iconic products that draws global recognition as being British. Firmin House is the only remaining comprehensive ceremonial design, manufacture and supply house in UK. The Group operates from three factories, two in London and one in Birmingham. The Group has fulfilled contracts for UK Ministry of Defence, The Tower of London, The British Royal Household and many other Royal Households around the world.
Kashket & Partners operate a tailoring facility in the heart of London simultaneously manufacturing bespoke officers uniforms, civic and livery tailoring, fine suiting and highly specialised garments for heads of state of many nations. Firmin & Sons are perhaps the only company left in the United Kingdom with integrated design, development and manufacture capability with all of the skills under one roof. Firmin House operates a number of specialist retail establishments. Kashket & Partners can be found in the West End of London offering the finest in traditional suiting
Monday, 22 April 2013
Edinburgh Castle - A nation at Arms
Like any nation,
Scotland's military history has been shaped by its terrain and its position on
the map. The division between highland and lowland, along the coastline and on
to the main sea routes of the Atlantic and the North Sea - the presence of a powerful neighbour – all
have determined Scotland strategic importance.
The power of the
European nations was becoming ever more reliant on their ability to wage war in
defence of their interests. Only those nations rich enough to sustain large
professional armed forces were able to extend their influence. Scotland alone
could not compete for dominance of empire. England’s growing power depended on
the stability of the whole of mainland Britain. The 1707 Union between Scotland
and England offered Scotland a share in England’s wealth and power. In return,
England gained greater military security.
What I saw on
display at the National War Museum is less than 5% of collections overall – the
rest in storage at different sites in the city. I did not necessarily find any
information on Military tailoring, however, I managed to obtain much more
insight in to the history of British uniforms. I found it very interesting to
see military uniforms in all their glory, as symbols of Scottish pride and
heritage. As uniforms that have been restored for hundreds of year, it goes to
show how well made they must have been made and how robust the materials are to
have lasted this long in history.
Uniform of an assistant Surgeon of the Royal Navy, 1856 - 1863.
Typical Naval cuffs embroidered with bullion threaded braid.
All clothing needed for service was issued to the individual in a carefully controlled system. Regulation uniforms were introduced in to the Royal Navy in the 1850's, as conditions of service for sailors became more controlled. Until 1917, the uniform had to be paid for with money held back from the sailors' wages.

Although officers' appearance was subject to regulation, officers bought their own clothing privately. Officer's clothing was of a higher quality and value then the uniform issued to the men. The metal boxes protected expensive epaulettes and aiguilette (lanyards/cords hung from the shoulder) from damage and dirt.
This here is a button stick made form bone, used to protect the cloth of the uniform from staining while polishing buttons. Much time was spent keeping uniform and equipment clean in order to pass inspection.
Holdalls, known as 'hussifs', used by soldiers to keep personal items and sewing kits to repair uniform. The holdalls could be hung by the soldiers bed or rolled up and carried in the pack. like many items that were not official issue, these have been decorated with personal and regimental symbols, and they are made from pieces of old uniform.
The Military Foot Police were named after their dismounted role. There also existed a unit of Military Mounted Police. The familiar 'red cop' was from an early date set these soldiers apart from the rest of the army.
This is a doublet of a soldier of the 78th Highland regiment showing a variety of special badges indicating the rank, seniority, conduct and skills of the wearer. These badges showed status and encouraged ideas of service, self respect and responsibility. The two chevrons (stripes) on the upper sleeve show that this soldier held the rank of corporal. the crossed axes were worn by pioneers - soldiers specially employed to clear roads and carry out repairs to barracks and camps. the five chevrons on the lower sleeve wee awarded for a total of 23 years of good conduct. Each chevron brought a pay increase of a penny a day.
Armed forces exist to fight wars, a task that required individual to carry out many functions under extreme conditions. As in most jobs, sailors, soldiers, and airmen have needed special clothing and equipment to perform their tasks.
Cavalry clothing of the 18th Century. Although increasingly concerned with presenting a uniform appearance, 18th century military clothing and equipment was nevertheless designed to give a degree of protection to those troops expected to fight. This coat was worn by a Dragoon (mounted soldier) c1710-1740. It's thick woollen material and long skirts gave some protection to the body and upper legs from sword and bayonet cuts. Jackboots were made of stiffened leather. These would protect the knee and lower leg of a mounted soldier from blows and from collision with horses as cavalry charged tightly packed together. Gauntlets were made of leather and protected the hands and wrists. I couldn't manage to get a clear enough photo of these however this is what they would have looked like:
The Khaki tunic was issued in 1885 as an experiment uniform for British troops overseas. Unlike the traditional red coat, this design was intended to blend in with the surrounding terrain. Thirty years earlier soldiers on active service in India had begun dying their white summer uniforms 'khaki' (from the Hindi work for 'dust'). The labels and seals on this jacket show that it is a 'sealed pattern', an example kept as an official record of the new uniform. On the shoulder is the regimental title of the 2nd Derbyshire Regiment, one of the first units to try out the new tunic. The looped strips across the chest were for carrying rifle ammunition. The tunic was never issued to the whole army.
A khaki apron was worn to camouflage the kilt. in 1902, khaki clothing had become the standard active service uniform of the British Army. Highland regiments first began wearing kilt aprons during the South African War, after it was realised tat the enemy marksmen could pick out the dark tartan of their kilts in the distance. Kilts were last worn in active service in 1940. There is a little bit of interesting information on a shako cap that was out on display worn by an officer in 1892. As military headdress was often designed to look impressive on parade, these elaborate expensive caps had to be protected by the rain. A greatcoat would have protected the rest of the wearer's uniform.
I manage to hit the jackpot by finding this full dress uniform, Royal Horse Artillery, c1905. This was regarded as an elite unit. you can see that this uniform is deliberately glamorous, incorporating elements of light cavalry dress like the fur 'busby'. Like many developments in military dress, this was an important fashion, in this case copied from the Hungarian Hussars. This uniform carried such status that when an officer was selected for service, he was said to have 'earned his jacket', a reference to the elaborate braided jacket.

Busby headdress and helmet are worn in full dress by officers.
Sabretache
Pouch belt and pouch for carrying messages and orders.
Cuff braiding
There is also an interesting piece of uniform called the neck stock. These uncomfortable leather collars were worn around the neck to keep the soldier's heads upright and straight. Body posture was an important part of what was considered to be proper military appearance. Stocks were worn under the high collars of the tight fitting tunics. They were abolished in the 1860's.
The use of such simple identification devices recalled the coloured ribbons, sashes, flowers and leaves used to distinguish opposing armies in the seventeenth century. Then in the twentieth century, the common need for protective clothing determined the appearance of soldiers, regardless of nationality.
I found an interesting fact out when reading up about this uniform, which is that soldier's waistcoats were generally made from the remnants of other items of uniform. This particular waistcoat has a tartan back, probably from an old plaid.
This is the uniform of Leopold, Duke of Albany, Colonel of the 3rd Battalion Seaforth Highlanders, 1882-84.What interested me about this particular uniform was the incredible collar detail as well as the intricate cuff braiding.
Again this is a tunic that is very similar style to a Hungarian Hussar uniform. This jacket is believed to be of the Glasgow shape shooters, a part-time units of the 1820's. It is incredibly to notice how many uniforms over the years have been strongly influenced by the Hussar style.
Textile investigation
norwichtextiles.co.uk
Textiles production has been an enormously important activity since early times. What we wear, and how we furnish our homes are two of the great preoccupations which unite us all. The textiles story also embraces wider histories: ideas of beauty and design, fashion and innovation, production and working practice, trade and retail.
People are usually surprised to find out that Norwich had an important part to play in the textile world. Often described as England's second city, Norwich in its heyday has been described as ‘the chief seat of the chief manufacture of the realm’. In the 17th and 18th centuries ‘Norwich Stuffs’ were known throughout Europe and beyond. The Norwich Shawls of the 19th century were amongst the most beautiful and technically advanced fabrics of their age.
The early medieval cloth industry was based on the production of a variety of woollen and linen cloths. From the 16th century, Norwich specialised in light unfulled cloths, such as camlets. Success rested on the fusion of technical knowledge introduced by the Dutch, Flemish and Walloon settlers known as ‘Strangers’, and the expertise of the Norwich-born cloth workers. A fabulous range of cloths, many with exotic names like callimanco and tappisado, was developed and sold at home and abroad.
During the industrial revolution, the Norwich industry was eclipsed by cloths from areas better served to take advantage of cheap labour, power sources and good communications; such as the West Riding of Yorkshire. Norwich responded by re-inventing itself as a centre for making shawls, horsehairs and crapes, but its share of the trade gradually fell away.
The last cloth was made in Norwich in the late 1970s. Bomb damage, slum clearance and road schemes have destroyed much of the textiles landscape. But look more closely, and the legacy of textile might is unmistakable. We find traces of wealth generated in the City churches, public buildings and charities and in its stock of merchant and artisan housing. Above all, we find the lives of leading Norwich citizens over the centuries and story of textiles manufacture are closely inter-twined.
Hainsworth.co.uk
Textiles production has been an enormously important activity since early times. What we wear, and how we furnish our homes are two of the great preoccupations which unite us all. The textiles story also embraces wider histories: ideas of beauty and design, fashion and innovation, production and working practice, trade and retail.
This web-site invites you to explore these ideas by looking at textiles development in one English provincial city: the City of Norwich.
People are usually surprised to find out that Norwich had an important part to play in the textile world. Often described as England's second city, Norwich in its heyday has been described as ‘the chief seat of the chief manufacture of the realm’. In the 17th and 18th centuries ‘Norwich Stuffs’ were known throughout Europe and beyond. The Norwich Shawls of the 19th century were amongst the most beautiful and technically advanced fabrics of their age.
The early medieval cloth industry was based on the production of a variety of woollen and linen cloths. From the 16th century, Norwich specialised in light unfulled cloths, such as camlets. Success rested on the fusion of technical knowledge introduced by the Dutch, Flemish and Walloon settlers known as ‘Strangers’, and the expertise of the Norwich-born cloth workers. A fabulous range of cloths, many with exotic names like callimanco and tappisado, was developed and sold at home and abroad.
During the industrial revolution, the Norwich industry was eclipsed by cloths from areas better served to take advantage of cheap labour, power sources and good communications; such as the West Riding of Yorkshire. Norwich responded by re-inventing itself as a centre for making shawls, horsehairs and crapes, but its share of the trade gradually fell away.
The last cloth was made in Norwich in the late 1970s. Bomb damage, slum clearance and road schemes have destroyed much of the textiles landscape. But look more closely, and the legacy of textile might is unmistakable. We find traces of wealth generated in the City churches, public buildings and charities and in its stock of merchant and artisan housing. Above all, we find the lives of leading Norwich citizens over the centuries and story of textiles manufacture are closely inter-twined.
Hainsworth.co.uk
Hainsworth is a specialist textile company that has been an unrivalled market leader for over 225 years. In Tudor England, wool was an important commodity that signified power and influence. So much so that Queen Elizabeth I insisted nobility took their oaths of loyalty kneeling on a woollen sack. Today, the Woolsack remains at the heart of Britain’s democracy and is now the seat of the Lord Speaker in the House of Lords, the Upper House of Parliament in the United Kingdom. The Woolsack is covered in Hainsworth cloth.
Our ceremonial cloth has been at the heart of national pride, the world over, since before the Battle of Waterloo; our protective fabrics safeguard emergency services in the Middle East, Asia, Europe and North America; our interior fabrics furnish Royal palaces and homes throughout Europe and the Middle East; our snooker and pool cloth is undeniably the best in the world; and our award-winning innovation centre is an internationally recognised authority in the design and development of woven textiles.
From the time Abimelech William Hainsworth started manufacturing woollen cloth in Yorkshire, investing in our people and maintaining strong partnerships with customers and suppliers have been the cornerstones of our success. Hainsworth fabric has clothed royalty and the military for full-dress ceremonial occasions and has embellished and enriched the furnishings of palaces across the world.
Hainsworth also delivered the first inherently heat and flame-retardant fabrics in the UK and now protect emergency services and military personnel around the world from the damaging effects of fire. Hainsworth enables musicians, designers, tailors and world championship snooker players to reach the pinnacle of their professions.
Today, our challenge is to integrate the traditional qualities of craftsmanship with cutting edge innovation and product development to meet the needs of a growing and diverse global customer base. Our product patents, The Queen’s Award for Enterprise in Innovation and the granting of our Royal Warrant, to supply HM The Queen, demonstrate our ability to deliver fabric to the highest possible standard. The ever changing needs of our apparel, technical and industrial, and interior fabric customers drive our commitment to maintaining the Hainsworth name as the benchmark in all textile manufacture.
Hainsworth supply authentic costume fabrics to Film & TV companies, Opera Houses and leading theatres worldwide.Selected for their quality, colour and authenticity our fabrics are used in costume design from traditional to modern and have been used in many recent films including Harry Potter, the Dark Knight and the musical Oliver.
Military tailoring article
http://www.notjustalabel.com/editorial/military_tailoring
I came across this article which appeared to be such a fascinating read about the fit and construction of a military garment.
The construction of a garment can be what makes it unique. The tailoring is what makes it interesting. It is important to the outcome of the design. Military tailoring depends solely on the garments construction. Uniforms are purpose built. The iconography of this historic practice hides its functionality in the very details of the garment’s stitching.
Military tailoring is a highly complex skill. The fit of the uniform is crucial, the balance of the garment vital, and maintaining strict precise dress, a regulation. Tailoring techniques must be used to enable complete freedom of movement.
It is to be noted that the uniforms mentioned are ceremonial, however were once worn on the battlefield. Contrary to the use of camouflage, these uniforms were designed and constructed to confront. This was primarily achieved through the sharp, stiff and rigid lines of the uniform. All service uniforms, patrol jackets or ceremonial coats for example, are all cut to fit the body. There is no allowance for slack or ease. The concept is that the uniform should not be skin-tight but should hug the body, in order for the guard or officer to have complete freedom of movement. This creates a stiff, sharp bodyline, but allows the wearer the ability to move fast and freely.
In a discussion with Michael Skinner, Master Tailor at Dege & Skinner of Savile Row, he explained that the most comfortable garments are those, which fit correctly. The armholes are cut high into the pit. The back is cut with a hollow shape. Even the overalls are cut high in the waist. He pointed out that the duties of an officer would invariably involve simple movements, like stretching a leg or raising an arm. Inevitably, the officer would have to fire a musket, mount a horse, march, or salute, which as Skinner pointed out, explains why the armhole of the uniform is cut right underneath the arm.
The side seams of a uniform are another interesting feature. They run from behind the underarm to the back, not side, of the coat with two more curved seams, known as patrol seams running down the back, to the spine of the coat. All of these features, the shoulder, side and back seams, have been considered construction lines that would create a brace-like shell. This forces the wearer to stand upright by giving him a concave back and a convex chest with very little effort.
Skinner also explained the relationship between military and civilian clothing. He was an officer in the Territorial Army and explained how balance is the key to any form of clothing. Balance, in tailoring terms means the way a garment falls and is achieved by way of cutting. He continued to explain that over generations, military and civilian clothing have lent and borrowed tailoring practices, for instance, the basic Mess Coat pattern has been developed from the Morning Coat pattern. The Morning Coat is one of the most perfected patterns. Many other tailored garments have been drafted from it. Another garment derived from the Morning Coat pattern is the Sporting Hunt Coat.
It is important to highlight also the relationship between the Morning coat, the Hunt Coat or the Mess Coat. They are all dress coats, which are cut close to the body and are intended to fit correctly. This is achieved by ensuring that the back balance is longer than the front. By doing so, the coat fits the hollow of the back, right from the collar, rather than hanging straight down, like a lounge coat.
The cuts of different uniforms vary. Cavalry uniforms have dress coats that are long and skirty because they were horsed regiments. These would be cut at least 1”-2” longer than infantry or gunner service dress uniforms. The skirt of the cavalry uniform would be cut with a flare, contrary to that of the guards or infantry, which would have been more clipped-in. The reason for these slight differences, Skinner put quite simply. They needed to be functional. The tailoring takes into account what they were expected to do. Cavalry regiments were horsed; hence their uniforms made for mounting a horse whereas the infantry regiments would be on foot.
Lastly, it is the skill of embroidery that gives the Grandeur. The spectacular embellishment of the uniform provides the true splendour. It is to be noted that no state event, or parade of state function would be possible without the genius craftsmanship of tailors, cutters, embroiders, furriers, boot-makers, hat-makers, and many others.
Sunday, 21 April 2013
Neck stock
This stiff leather collar, fastened by two buckles at the back, measured nearly three and a half inches high, and it prevented the neck movement necessary for sighting along a barrel. The origin of the leather neck collar has to do with early 19th Century military fashion trends in Europe and North America. Its use among enlisted men supposedly improved their military bearing and appearance by forcing the chin high and to serve as protection for one's neck from sword blows. General George F. Elliott, recalling its use after the Civil War, said it made the wearers appear "like geese looking for rain."
The stock was dropped as an article of marine uniform in 1872, after surviving through the uniform changes of 1833, 1839, and 1859.
Leather collars were later issued to marines sent to the Philippines during the Philippine-American War because of the high casualty rate due to neck wounds and decapitations especially in battles in the Southern Philippines.
-
Wikipedia
in comparison to a civilian neck stock
Saturday, 20 April 2013
Research from books
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