Having researched in to Henry Poole & Co. I have found an interesting bit of information on the tailoring process which they use. This is really great information for me because I can get a better insight in to a professionals process that can be applied to the way in which they make any sort of jacket, including a military coat.
Individual paper pattern is cut using individual clients measures. Firstly, the client with the help of the cutter selects the cloth from our range of over 6000 luxurious samples for their Henry Poole suit. Upon choosing the fabric, the particular style that the client desires is then discussed with the cutter who then will take the clients own individual measurements. From the measurements that are taken, the clients own paper pattern is cut and the particular style that has been discussed with the client is transferred to the pattern.
Pattern Cutting
The client, with the help of the cutter, selects the cloth for his suit from our range of over 6,000 luxurious samples. Details of the style are discussed with the cutter, who will then take the client’s measurements. A unique paper pattern is then cut by hand, incorporating the client’s measurements with his choice of style.
Cloth Cutting
The paper pattern is laid out on the cloth and chalked around. The cloth is then cut by hand, leaving extra cloth at the inlays to allow the suit to be altered at a future date if the client’s weight changes.
Trim
Particular materials are added to the suit, i.e. natural wool canvasses and linen. These are used in the construction of the suit to give it its classic Henry Poole silhouette.
The garment is assigned to a particular highly skilled tailor where it is canvassed by hand and readied for the first fitting. The selected tailor will then stay with the client during their time as a Henry Poole customer, thus giving consistency to the look and feel of all the client’s future garments.
During the first fitting, the cutter begins to make alterations to the suit to the client’s posture.
Marking Up
The garment is completely taken apart, re-cut and given back to the tailor to be prepared for the next fitting.
Previous alterations and amendments are refined, giving the suit its exceptional fit and comfort. The suit is checked for break over shoe, seat of trouser, drape, neck point and cuffs.
Finishing
After final alterations have been made, a tailoress makes the button holes by hand and hand finishes the suit inside and out.
The suit is now ready for the final fitting. Advice is given to the customer on how best to care for the suit and maintain its shape. Each suit is numbered and logged, enabling us to source materials to repair any damage that might occur during daily wear.
This must be a process that has been used for over a hundred years in the practise, and would be a very good What I find really interesting is that fact that after the first fitting, the jacket is completely taken apart and re-cut to the new measurements.
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