This really is a great website to browse through for videos and tutorials to helped you develop 'the art of tailoring'. Savile Row Tailor Darren Beaman run this website with the hope of helping others to improve their skills set and understanding of the principles and processes needed to master this craft. I found a great little tutorial on Welted pocket which I knew would ceom in useful for my research and samples.
here are also some interesting videos from the savile row training website:
http://www.savilerowtraining.co.uk/videos/
Today we will look at what goes into making a jetted pocket. It’s very simple yet it takes a long time to get it right. Members with a sewing machine at home, have a go.
First we must mark the size of the pocket, this is done by the tailor (unless the cutter or customer has asked for a measurement).
As a rule the pocket will be from 6 to 7.1/2 inches , the tailor will look at the size of the jacket and mark where he thinks would be ok for the garment.
Let’s start
A strip of linen 8.1/2 inches by 3 inches
A strip of cloth (this will be the jetted pocket).
The front of the jacket, where the pockets are going into.
Mark the size of the pocket (here is 6 1/2 inches).
Ok we have now marked the pocket size, we need to prepare the rest, so that we can sew the cloths together.
We need to place the linen behind the main cloth (wrong side of the cloth), over the marked pocket as seen below.
You need to sew the linen as shown below to hold in place.
Then turn the cloth over, so you can see the right side of the garment.
We can now place the small piece on as shown below, making sure that we leave at least 1 inch either side of the pocket size. As shown below.
You now need to mark where you need to sew. The top and bottom chalk lines should be about 1/4 above and below center line. Baste the centre line in place to prevent any movement during sewing.
Once you have marked it, you will need to machine sew along the chalk line as shown.
You will need to tack each end to prevent the pocket stitching coming loose.
Ok if you have still got all your fingers, well done!
It should look like this.
Once you have sewn, you will need to cut the cloth as seen below.
Here you cut the smaller cloth, with out cutting the main cloth (cut in the center).
You must take great care NOT to cut what you have just sewn see below when cutting the corners!!!
You now need to press the ends of the pocket as below.
Well done!
Once you have done this, you will need to open the seams.
Do the same on both sides as shown below.
You now need to pull the cloth through the back of the jacket as below.
Now baste the jettens as seen below, try to make sure they stay the same width 1/4 inch.
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