Kelvingrove Research

Kelvingrove research

During my trip to the Kelvingrove art gallery, I didn’t necessarily find the information I was looking for specific to military tailoring, however I would say that I still learnt some information that is valuable to my understanding of military uniform and what it meant to certain cultures.

For instance, these two Japanese and Chinese costumes that I found were actually very interesting to read about, as they relate very well to my previous research at the Mitchell Library.

“This warlike costume was only worn for processions and ceremonies that proclaimed the owner’s devotion to the emperor. The warrior looked fierce even though he couldn’t fight.”

“When this armour was made, Japanese samurai no longer fought in wars. They had become civil servants.”

“A warrior’s livelihood depended on the loyal military service he gave to a more powerful lord.”

From my previous research, I can depict how much uniform helps reflect the pride and glory of a soldier and one’s allegiance to his country. As it is said above, for this particular culture a warrior’s livelihood is dependent on his loyal service to his king. Recognition of his devotion brings honour to him and his family, and his uniform must do well to emphasise his success. I think this can relate to different cultures all over the world, and still is important to this day. Uniform should always be there to help symbolise a love for one’s country. Uniform was also an important means of intimidation, and to create an illusion so that warrior appears more daunting and fierce. I can see how this would matter particularly in historic time’s war was fought with swords and an army was approached by their enemy face to face. This isn’t as relevant in modern military tactics; however I understand the idea of preserving the glory of these elaborate and grand uniforms.

This uniform was worn by a courtier who lived in the Forbidden City, the imperial palace in Beijing.

“Sometimes appearances are everything. This costume is not actually armour at all – it has no protective qualities. But it looks impressive and warlike.”

“The man who wore this costume would never have fought or known how to fight. Looking like a warrior was much more important than actually being one.”

This is another good example of how more important uniform is to certain cultures over skill on the battlefield. ‘Appearances are everything’ – it was more crucial to look the part rather than have the fighting technique. It was impressive, and that’s what counted. How does this perspective compare to modern day military uniform?

As the times change, there is more need for practicality in uniforms, but there will always be a place for tradition in modern day society.  The amount of detail and effort that goes in to making garments like these can relate to military tailoring to a certain degree, as the overall objective will always be to captivate a nation’s pride and glory . I’m not sure this would count as tailoring research, but even so I feel that all in all it counts on a personal level towards a better understanding and appreciation of passion that goes in to creating military garments even to this day and the message that they have conveyed for thousands of years. I think personally it is important to have a clearer insight in to the history of this subject prior to taking any other route.

I also found a little bit of good information on Scottish tradition and uniform from my trip. I suppose it would be obvious in stating how tartan has always been a symbol of scottish pride and is still used in Scottish Military to this day, as it is a well known fact. However, I had no idea that tartan was banned in 1746 after the failure of the Jacobite rebellion. But Scottish regiments in the British army were still allowed to wear tartan plaids and kilts abroad.

This is a photo of a painting of Hugh Montgomery wearing the uniform of the Black Watch. The Regiment was issued with the very first Military tartan in 1739.

“Gradually, the regiments developed their own tartans. The Gordon Highlanders added yellow to the standard Military tartan of dark blue, green and black. This soon became known as Gordon tartan. This was the beginning of clan tartans.”

I assumed that clan tartans came from hundreds of years previously, but apparently it was around 1600 that the Highlanders in the north of Scotland started wearing tartan. They chose the colours and patterns they liked and could afford however this was not classed as clan tartan.

Tartan plaid was a useful and adaptable item of clothing. As an example of this is in this photo with the soldier in the middle using it to shelter from rain.

Painting of the Highland regiments in Paris 1815 wearing a tartan kilt as part of their military uniform. Creating a stir in the town, but regardless take pride in their heritage and traditions. Surely that is what uniform should always represent for a soldier and his country.

“Did you know that the word tartan comes from the French term ‘tiretaine’ for cloth that is made from wool and linen? Now tartan just means the checked pattern.”

This is a good example of tartan being used for tailored clothes in the mid-1700’s. Notice how carefully the material has been cut so the squares are lined up horizontally across the body. Evidence of such a technically advanced skill that dates back many generations. There are so many routes that I could go down in my research, could Scottish Military tailoring be one? How do the skills differ today or are they still the same as the processes of old times?

Tartan is such an iconic symbol of a proud Scotland and will always be used in elements of Military wear. At this stage I am not sure whether I will research this further, but I know I would like to learn more about the colours/patterns of different countries Military uniforms past and present. This may possibly lead to a more specific path for me to follow.

Military Buttons

Buttons are used to fasten uniforms or simply as ornamentation to demonstrate rank. Military buttons are either fastened using a shank with a hollow protrusion at the back or through holes in the button itself. Materials used have included bone, wood, metal and plastic. Many military buttons from previous centuries are now highly collectable items.

British Buttons

Up until 1767, buttons in the British Army did not identify particular regiments. After this time, buttons were numbered to designate the wearer's regiment. Nowadays, each unit of the British army has its own pictorial regimental button made from materials such as horn, plastic and compressed leather. The smallest are found on caps and mess dress waistcoats. Medium-size buttons are used on parade uniforms while large buttons are fitted to greatcoats and officers' dress jackets. Under British military dress regulations, a button's diameter is measured in "lignes" or "lines," where 40L is equivalent to one inch.

United States Buttons

U.S. military buttons designate particular branches of the armed forces. Buttons bearing the likeness of an eagle, especially in gold, will have come from a naval uniform. The Coast Guard military button features an anchor, most commonly silver-coloured. Air Force buttons also feature an eagle, but this eagle will have stars surrounding it and be perched on top of a symbol of another eagle. The eagles featured on Army buttons are relatively small and have symbols above their heads. The Marine Corps' eagle has a chain surrounding it with an anchor hanging off the end of it.

German Buttons

A large number of German troops were hired by the British to fight against the colonists during the American Revolution. Collectively referred to as "Hessians," these troops wore uniforms adorned with plain buttons that were flat-faced. The rear of the buttons featured a very pronounced boss, to which an iron wire eye was anchored. The buttons were made of a copper and zinc alloy known as tombac, or brass. Hessian buttons became increasingly common as the 18th century progressed.

French Buttons

Many French buttons feature the name of the French manufacturer on their backs. Buttons adorning the uniform of an officer in the Corps of Engineers are brass and feature a torso with a plumed helmet. In the 19th century, the silver-coloured marine and colonial button featured an anchor. Army officers wore buttons featuring a swirling circular pattern. Infantry soldiers wore buttons featuring numbers relating to their particular regiment.

How to identify Military buttons

Each branch of the military has different buttons and symbols to identify themselves: the Army, Navy, Coast Guard, Marines and Air Force. Different officers from different branches of the military wear different military buttons. If you need to determine which military buttons bear which significances, you can do so by keeping a few rules in mind.

1. Look for an eagle on the button. It's usually gold, but some of the buttons can be brass. An eagle, especially in gold, signifies the button used for the Navy. The eagle is usually full and has its wings spread out. Some of these buttons have stars around the eagle, but the eagle is the one telltale sign of a Navy button.

2. Identify the Coast Guard military button by looking for an anchor. It is usually surrounded by a cloth or chain that is the same material as the anchor. They come in varying colours, but the most popular type of button is a silver anchor with a gold chain or ribbon.
3. Use the eagle to identify the Air Force military branch button. This time, though, the eagle will be perched on top of a symbol of another eagle and will have stars surrounding it. It's smaller than the Navy button and is usually brass, hanging on the top of the left or right shoulder.

4. Check for an eagle a third time to identify the Army button. It's much the same as a Navy button, but the eagle on an Army military button is normally smaller and has a symbol above its head. Most times there are no stars surrounding the eagle on the button, but it is bright gold like most Navy buttons are.

5. Find another eagle embroidered in gold for the Marine Corps button. The eagle is facing a different way and you can see the wings clearly, and the eagle has a chain surrounding it with an anchor hanging off the chain. There are subtle differences between military buttons, but this one is easily recognisable. The top half of the eagle is surrounded by stars.

http://www.vintagebuttons.net

This page shows the backs of various buttons which can help identify them by markings, construction or other criteria. There are uniform, uniform type, other metal buttons such as "overall/work clothing" and livery buttons which are on display.

One way to know the age of a uniform button is to notice how the shank is attached. These examples show how the shank is brazed at the base which is an older construction method compared to the inserted shank types where you cannot see any brazing compound. Those who collect uniform buttons also look to see if there is "mushrooming" around the base of the shank. The button above on the left shows mushrooming where the shank meets the back of the button. The one on the right sits lower. Although lack of mushrooming is not "proof" that the button is from a certain period, this factor along with understanding of certain backmarks, face designs and other construction methods can help determine the age of a uniform button.

This is a uniform button shank type called "inserted shank", it's more recent than the brazed shank examples shown above. This is most commonly found on the uniforms that I have inspected, this is so that the button can be removed from the shank so that it can be cleaned without damaging the uniform fabric.

What are shank buttons?

Shank buttons are buttons that have a small loop on the bottom to help provide an extra bit of space between the button and the garment it is attached to. Depending upon the style of the button, the shank can be made of metal, fabric, or plastic. Unlike an ordinary shankless button, buttons with shanks have no holes in the top. To attach a shank button to your fabric, you simply run your thread through the back of the shank.

These are various tinned iron back buttons, some are uniform and some are political types. This is an older metal button back. Japanning (paint) was also used to stop the cheaply made thin iron backs from rusting although many buttons are found without the paint which was fired on but did not adhere well to the button back.

Birdcage shank 1902-1952 British Royal Navy uniform button

There are many other types of butting displayed on this website, all have given me much insight in to the various types of fastenings from different eras.

Pewter Buttons

Bright-cut pewter buttons, circa 1860 Pewter is the name given to a soft white metal alloy made chiefly of tin. The word pewter is probably a variation of the word "spelter," which became "peutre" in French. Roughly 85 percent to 99 percent of the alloy is tin, with the remaining 1 percent to 15 percent being copper, which acts as a hardener. Lower grades of older pewter contain lead, which gives the metal a bluish tint. Modern pewter typically utilizes antimony and/or bismuth instead of lead. Pewter buttons were made in America as early as the 18th century. Made of lead-based pewter cast in molds, these buttons could be made in the home. At first, the shanks of pewter buttons were cast as part of the button, but the soft pewter shanks quickly wore out from contact with thread. In the early 1800s, a more durable wire eye was embedded in the molten pewter, and from that time on the technology of pewter button making changed frequently, sometimes for the better, sometimes not. The following descriptions cover a chronological sampling of the many types of collectible pewter buttons.

Hard white pewter buttons, circa 1820 Hard whites Several manufacturers in New England made pewter buttons to replace the supply of British buttons cut off during the American Revolution. All 25 or so American makers of post-Revolution pewter buttons whose backmarks have been identified were from Connecticut. Americans made their buttons using a hard grade of pewter with a fair amount of tin. Called "hard whites," the buttons appealed to the growing middle class. There is some evidence that hard whites, which date from 1800 to 1830, were made to resemble steel buttons popular at the time. Some makers went so far as to backmark their buttons "imitation steel." Because many of the Connecticut button makers were in close proximity to one another, their patterns were often the same or very similar. An apprentice would work for one maker and then hire out to another button maker, sharing designs and information. Hard white pewters have steel or brass wire loop shanks embedded in a hump of metal on the back. Face patterns are usually conventional, with variations of stars and pinwheels being the most popular.

Rimmed pewter buttons back marked "Patent," circa 1830 Styles for men and women Men began to wear new styles of pewter buttons, including rimmed and faced buttons, in the 1830s and 1840s. Rimmed pewters are composed of a small one-piece pewter body with an applied brass rim. The shanks resemble those found on hard whites and consist of a wire shank embedded in a mound of pewter. Faced pewter buttons have a brass covering over the pewter, with shanks like those on hard whites and rimmed pewters. In the mid-19th century, the women's wear industry began to utilize pewter buttons. These buttons were cast, often with the shank included. Many have stamped designs tinted with colored varnishes and are further enhanced with bright-cut designs. Bright-cutting is done with a sharp tool that gouges through the varnished surface to expose bright metal.

Late 19th-century designs In the second half of the 19th century, an inferior quality of pewter, sometimes called Britannia, was used in combination with other metals. Conventional and pictorial designs were featured on the pewter centers, which were mounted on buttons of brass or steel. In the last decade of the 19th century, openwork and other pewter buttons in conventional and pictorial designs became very common. Many of these buttons were made of pewter containing a high percentage of lead. The buttons are inferior in quality, dull in appearance, and apt to make a very dark mark on paper, like pencil lead. These are found in conventional and pictorial designs, sometimes tinted in various colors. A seam or mold mark on the back of the button is characteristic of the type. Backmarks, such as "Depose" or "Paris," are also found. The shanks are soft and bend easily.

Modern pewter buttons created post-1930 Haida Shaman by Sid Bell Doll by Christina Car by Steiff Modern pewters Pewter buttons continue to be made in the 21st century by artisan manufacturers who work in the old method of casting, using high-grade pewter. Battersea, a family firm in Wisconsin, Sid Bell originals of New York, and Danforth Pewter of Vermont produce limited quantities of beautiful buttons prized by collectors. Two large Royal Navy Pewter buttons-Maker Nutting &Son Covent Garden, London-circa 1805. these were found off of http://www.treasurenet.com Also through the above website, I managed to find a link to another brilliant website called  http://www.ecsnaith.com This company has on of the UK's largest range of military regimental buttons, as well as this I was able to stumble upon many other items that this website sells such as Russia Braid, lace, and uniforms that are useful to my research. http://www.pewterbuttons.co.uk They make reproduction buttons for historical costumes and uniforms mainly 16th century, 17th century and 18th century designs. The buttons are mainly for use in historical re-enactment, living history displays, as well as the theatre. Some of the designs that they produce are actual copies of period buttons. Other designs are based on pictures of real buttons in various museum and private collections. They are robust quality made, and an authentic product which can survive the sometimes harsh conditions of the battle field and the campaign. What is interesting about the comments on this website is that it mentions that the buttons are not polished and will tarnish with age, however little bit of rubbing with some wire wool will bring out a nice shiny finish. Does this mean that this method is used for all military buttons? This is something to investigate. As well as that, they mention that some of my buttons have a longer shank as often buttons were attached to a garment by pushing them through a small hole made in the cloth. Leather or linen cord was then threaded through the shanks on the inside and secured at the top and bottom this would hold the buttons in place. However, you can sew them on like any other type of button. This is a very interesting fact about they in which period buttons were attached to clothing and is something that I would like to research further. Left: 15mm flat pewter button cast from a button dateing from the mid 17th century. Right: 16th century style button the original was found in the UK in a 17th century context.

Emailing

I think that at this stage I am having not much luck finding any information on actual military tailoring techniques over the internet. As well as this I cannot find any books specific to this line of work. I know that military tailoring isn’t necessarily a specific type of tailoring as a lot of the techniques fall under general tailoring. However, there are elements such as the padded lining of military jackets, as well as the application of trims that are distinctive to the construction of military garments and no not fall under this general category. So, what I need to do is find out what exactly goes in to making a military jacket, which tailoring skills are relevant that I can sample? But as I said it is not something that is easily found over the internet. My theory is that the tricks of the trade are secret and cannot be easily found unless asked or learnt directly. I am thinking that it is going to take a lot more than this to get the information that I need. I can imagine that learning this trade takes years and years of training to be a skilled professional and I don’t expect to learn everything through this project; however there is no harm in curiosity. I’ve decided to mail a couple of historic uniform recreational companies to ask their advice on aspects such as useful sources like books, points of interest, people to contact, and even if I could ask them a couple of questions about their line of work. I know that it is a shot in the dark but at this stage I really don’t have anything to lose. My plan is to find a few more people or companies to research and email so that I can hopefully get at least one positive outcome. Thinking outside the box is quite a crucial aspect for me right now and I’d like to think of it as being a little more pro-active.

So far I have emailed:

Mr Ben Retro clothing

www.mrbenretroclothing.com

This is a vintage store based in Glasgow. I had been told that there is a woman that works in the store that repairs, alters and replicates Military uniforms.

Tinkers Tailor 18^th Century Outfitters

www.tinkerstailor.com

This is a company based in Derbyshire that make and sell soldiers and sailors garments, as well as accessories of the 18^th Century. They are a bespoke tailor made service that use methods of construction are as near to that used by an 18^th Century tailor.

Ninya Mikhaila – Historical Costumier 

www.ninyamikhaila.com

Ninya Mikhaila is a maker of high quality reconstructions of historic dress, working to the individual needs of heritage sites, museums and private clients.

A History of Military Uniform

Military Uniform

Historians trace the rise of the uniform to 210BC with the first emperor of China – Emperor Qin Shi Huang who was laid to rest with an army of some 7,000 terracotta warriors to protect him. The armor and clothing of these soldiers vary according to rank but show real evidence of uniformity as well as their hairstyle. At the same time there was the Carthaginian general Hannibal boasting an impressive battalion of uniformed troops.

The rise of military uniforms stems from a number of requirements that remains as necessary today as they did thousands of years ago. The heat of the battle was a confusing and alarming place, and uniform ultimately provided a means by which combatants could be identified.

The ranking system has been they way armies have worked for thousands of years. Rank and uniform goes hand in hand, as uniform signifies status. Uniforms were traditionally seen as a form of livery; so many officers did not appreciate the idea of wearing what was considered to be servants clothing and many would then pay to wear their own grand clothes. They dresses to show that they were clearly not fighting for money but for glory and their uniforms helped to identify the colours of their regiments. However, officers were later ordered to wear uniform in the late 18^th century with epaulettes – the shoulder stipe that signifies a senior rank – being introduced to the British army in 1768.

Uniforms helped to create a sense of pride to one’s country and cause. As well as this, the opposing ranks would also use their uniforms as a means of intimidating the enemy by making soldiers appear taller, broader and generally more daunting than usual. An example of this would be tall mitre hats used by King Frederick William I of Prussia for his army. The skulls and crossbones is also a classic used to serve a chilling reminder that the wearer means business. Or even the Japanese Samurai warriors…

A uniform also gave the soldier a relative degree of safety, because a uniformed man was differentiated from a civilian bearing arms and therefore offered the protection of the regulations of war. A uniform could also prevented a soldier from being deserted, as a complex and unusual uniform could not easily blend in with civilian clothing.

One of the most important uses of the early uniform was to lure men in to joining the army. Especially for young men who like to ‘dress to impress’ – a great uniform makes it more desirable to sign up to an army even when the chances of survival are slim. It also reflected glory on to the commander of an army who at times was required to kit out his own troops from his own wage.

Historical warfare from the 18^th and 19^th century was a colourful business – the British redcoats, the Swede’s blue and yellow, and the French with their blue, read and white. This was fine when wars were fought with swords and cannons that did not guarantee accuracy. As soon as the deadly precise rifle was introduced in the late 19th century it put an end to most of the elaborate and showy uniforms - it was time to be realistic. 

Nearly all the world’s armies took up variants of the ‘Khaki’ coloured uniform - which was introduced by Britain since the Indian uprising in 1857. However, the French still took pride in their bright blue, red and white uniforms as well as the old-fashioned headgear in battle as late as the early 20^th century. Other nations kept their traditional uniforms only for ceremonial occasions. 

Camouflage was the next advance in from drab colours with its objective being to help soldiers blend in to their surroundings. The Nazi regime introduced variants of this to its units in 1938, as well as the Soviet Union using all-white camouflage for battles. The British fought in drab colours until 1942 when camouflaged Denison smock was introduced for the Parachute regiment and later distributed to other units. Berets were introduced during WWII initially in Khaki, but regiments later chose different colours as a mark of pride and differentiation, such as the famous maroon beret of the Parachute Regiment.

Khaki and camouflage are practical in battle but not necessarily impressive to look at. Therefore to retain some of the grandness from traditional soldiery, many armies have taken to equipping their troops with several outfits for different occasions. 

As modern warfare uses technological advances in science to attack the opposition, a soldier rarely makes physical contact or even sees the enemy unless it is from a distance. Thus military uniforms do not need to look psychologically threatening to the enemy any more, although they still play a major part in troop morale. Modern military uniform is changing in the direction of practicality – it’s time to look tough and fight dirty!