Thursday 18 April 2013

Another look at the tunics from wardrobe

As I havent had much luck with getting in contact with people that specialise in Military uniform tailoring, a lot of my sourcing/research has came from the tunics from RCS stock. I thought I would have another look at them after having done a bit more resarch since the last time, as I might find that I have a better understanding now of the techniques and methods. As well as this, I found a couple of things that I still need to research in to which will be my next step.


I want to investigate in to this fabric that is used as a lining in a fair few of these tunics. Graeme says that it is some sort of thick wool, but I need to find out what type of wool exactly.






I had another look at the facings on these tunics. I noticed that the tunics with buttons holes typically would have a facing, however on some tunics that are not fastened with buttons and button holes, but instead with hook and bar as well as braid and buttons did not have an inside facing. This was most comming on the tunics that were of similar style to a hussar tunic with the braid and buttons fastening the tunic together.




This got me thinking whether this necessary for Hussar tunics to have a facing on the inside, and whther it would be necessary for me to have one when I create my own?


The collar on the left has a fusible canvas attached to the outer collar fabric. It has not been pad stitched to the top fabric. When I spoke to the woman at mandors she mentioned that it might be the better option to go for a fusible collar canvas so as to ensure a better firmness to the stand of the collar. This is something that I will bear in mind. This obviously wasn't an option in historical tunics such as the napoleonic Hussars, however it may be an improvement to older techniques therefore ultimately it might be the better option. The collar on the left also has a fusible fabric in the collar, but instead it was fusible linen that has been attached to the canvas. Again there was no pad stitching, thus must have been put in place to protect the thick canvas from poking through and causing discomfort. Another option to bare in mind.
When comparing this collar interlining to the collar canvas samples that I have I cann see quite a difference; the collar canvas sample that I have from Whaley's is much firmer but not as thick. Where as this fabric looks more like a Jute/hessian type of fabric that has obviously deteriorated/become distressed over time. This may be due to the age of the tunic, however I am still thinking that the Whaleys product would be a better option as the material seems to be of a better quality and durability. I may have to consider having two layers of the fabric but I will decide this once I have ordered it.


This collar has a leather interlining instead of collar canvas, I suppose that this would be more expensive but much more durable than the canvas option. I have tried to to some research in to why to use leather instead of canvas but I couldn't find any information on this topic so far.



Examining the different styles/designs of quilting of the tunic lining.



These buttons have inserted shanks, but have been stitched on to the tunic rather than being attached to a cotter pin. You can tell the difference between a authentic piece and a costume piece.



This could possibly have been an authentic tunic, as rather than being stitched to the top fabric, the shank is attached under the surface through a tiny hole to a pin mechanism which means that the buttons can be removed for polishing or swapped with others of the same kind.



Jacket flap is something that I would want to encorporate in to my jacket






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