Tuesday 30 April 2013

Tailoring of the Belle Epoque: Vincent’s Systems of cutting all kinds of Tailor-Made Garments (1903)



This book by W.D.F Vincent is based on tailoring of the Belle Epoque era, which is a hundred years after the Napoleonic Wars. However, I feel that looking in to period tailoring from whichever era I can is still relevant research. Plus, I have been finding it very difficult to find information on tailoring further back from the 19th century. Therefore I feel that is it still important for me to obtain as much knowledge as is can from any direction.

However with that in mind, this work is a basic tailoring book that can still be used for garments covering a wide range of time. The standards of men’s suits had not been changed much since the 1870’s.The uniforms were standard from the 1880’s to the early part of World War I. The Belle Epoque was the era of opulence, the kept and the pampered. Dressing up was very important, women wore ‘pretty clothes’ and the men were ‘well-tailored’.

W.D.F. Vincent (1860-1926) is remembered mostly as being the editor of the Tailor and the Cutter, the most popular tailoring magazine of the time. He is also in connection with the ‘Cutters practical guide system’. He was a very well known cutter and teacher, and was the head of the Tailor and Cutter Academy on Drury Lane. In addition to this he was the managing director of the entire Tailor and Cutter operation from 1912 to his retirement in 1924. He is primarily thought of in connection to men’s tailoring, but in fact, he was also a very influential figure in the development of women’s tailoring as well. The ladies tailoring trade was just starting around the time that Vincent joined the staff of The Tailor and the Cutter in 1887. Vincent did not only focus on people of leisure, but also on the military, and clergy, civil servants, court and academic dress.


Vincent’s contributions to the world of fashion through the Tailor and the Cutter, plus the many books that he wrote on tailoring making him one of the most influential tailors of the period. This particular book provides an accurate record of what was worn and can be used by the historical researcher, and theatrical costumers like myself. In this book, Vincent aims at a clearness and conciseness of description, with the object of giving information in the most helpful form to those who desire to master the art of tailoring. 

Here are some examples of Military jackets from the book:



This is a Military patrol jacket, I chose this one due to the fact it has a similar looking design to a Hussars uniform. This does look more like a jacket than a tight fitting tunic, however the general uniform structural qualities can be applied to all military uniform. For instance, the shaping of the panels are common characteristics of a Military jacket; the back panel, side panel and front. You can see here the shaping of the centre front, curving out to give that prominent chest look desired for military uniform. You can also see the positioning of the canvas on the chest on the diagram. The shaping in of the panels at the waist, almost as if shaping to the body. You can see the dropped shoulder and the way that it curves to the shape of the shoulder.

As another example, again this shaping is applied to this tunic also. I notice that it is only the front shoulder seam that is shaped and the back should seem it straight; this is another thing that I will need to investigate in to as I do not know why this is the case.


In this second part of my work I have described my method of cutting all kinds of Jackets and Coats. I have first of all dealt with the qualifications necessary to succeed in the cutting room. I have illustrated the art of measuring, and have then proceeded to show how to draft out the patterns to the measures taken, so that an accurate fit may be produced for all sizes and shapes. I have illustrated and described the special features of cut and finish of all kinds of Jackets and Coats, so that with this book to refer to the cutter will be equal to all occasions.

The system described is of proved worth' it has been adopted by the Military authorities as the best for Master Tailors to study, and it is in use in thousands of cutting rooms in all parts of the world, from the highest class tailors in the West End to the Wholesale Clothing Works in different parts of the country.


W.D.F. Vincent




Here you can see they system in which measurements were taken by a tailor in the late 18th Century. 

Although the idea of drafting a period pattern from this book would be a very intriguing process, and is a method that I would really like to try in future when constructing period clothing, I felt that this would be too similar to what I had already done for my choice module - constructing a 1890's ladies street suit from an original pattern. Therefore my plan is to create my own pattern from scratch. I like this idea because I will be able to test my judgement skills by shaping the toile on the body to the desired look that resembles the style of a Hussar military tunic. I think that in future, this will be a route that I would like to take, if I choose to construct a uniform that is purely authentic, which is a task that I do not have the money for, for this particular project. Plus I have not yet accumulated all the knowledge and skills that would be required this this type of ambition. Which is why I am choosing to continue this project further after I finish this module in the hope that one day I will have developed even further to a stage where I would feel confident enough to use authentically correct techniques and fabric. At this stage I have only investigated in to the basics of tailoring, which has been a great starting point to this journey. I think that I can't have expected to obtain knowledge at the level of an experienced tailor such as Keith Levett of Savile Row's Henry Pool & Co. However, whether or not I choose to continue this area of expertise far in to the future, I will know where to benchmark myself against excellence, and use this as a guide to strive for success in this particular industry.



Monday 29 April 2013

Examples of Cuff Rank Distinctions

 These are late 19th Century rank distinctions below:


Examples of Hussar Rank Distinctions

(A) Colonel
(B) Major lace alternating silver and gold on breeches (1) and on the rear of dolman cuff (2)
(C) Typical combination of lace and piping on the outer seams of superior officer's breeches.
(D) Chef d'escadron's lace on font of pelisse cuff (1), (2), and on rear of pelisse cuff (3)
(E) Captaine's dolman cuff from front (1) and rear (2)
(F) Lace on outer seams of subaltern's breeches (1)and on from of lieutenant's (2)
(G) Sous-lieutenant's dolman cuff







Thursday 25 April 2013

Hand and Lock

Hand and Lock are a company that I was recommended to research in to by Graham Hunter.
They have been producing the highest quality hand embroidered products since 1767, ensuring that the company maintains its place as the leading supplier of all types of embroidery. Hand and Lock are the main suppliers to the Royal Family.
"Hand & Lock, the world’s oldest gold lacemen, offer a wide range of military goods and custom services to suit your requirements. We have been providing the military with hand embroidered accoutrements since the company’s inception in 1767."



Hand & Lock is an embroidery brand created from the fusion of two great, long established embroidery businesses, M Hand and S Lock. In 1767, a Hugenot refugee known as ‘M Hand’ added embroidery to his range of laces and set up M. Hand & Co. M Hand continued through the next two centuries, crafting beautiful embroidery for the military, royalty, and tailors throughout the Commonwealth and beyond.

In 1898 CE Phipps & Co. opened an embroidery business supporting the burgeoning London couture fashion houses. By 1956 it had survived the wars as a modest, yet well established business when a brilliant young designer, Stanley Lock, took over from Mr Phipps on his retirement.
The company, based in Fitzrovia, was renamed S Lock Ltd. It reached new heights throughout the next 45 years working with couturiers including Christian Dior, Norman Hartnell, and Hardy Amies. Taking notices of S Lock’s success, the monarchy awarded him a Royal Warrant. Royal commissions have included gowns for the Queen, the Queen Mother, and Princess Anne’s wedding ensemble. Princess Diana added new glamour with her love of richly embroidered garments.

Show-business used the extravagance and showiness of embroidery and beading to full effect in many famous productions, from Barnum to The Lion King. In 2001, these two extraordinary companies; M Hand and S Lock merged and the Hand & Lock brand was created.



The Hand & Lock Prize for Embroidery 2013

This prize started in 2000, it is very interesting to ready about as it is a competition that is was originally aimed towards students and is distributed to over a 1000 colleges and univerisites througout the world. It has become the world’s premier embroidery prize with entrants from hundreds of different countries, universities and colleges and is rapidly growing each year.

In early July 2013 the finalists will be chosen and introduced to major fashion, textile, or interior designers depending on their chosen style of embroidery. They will then have the opportunity to collaborate and produce exciting embroidery whether it be garments, accessories or soft furnishings.

I plan to look in to this further to get a better understanding of what is required for entrants; what sort of experience and skills are needed. I almost chose to do a research project on embroidery for my choice personal project module. It is a subject that I find very insteresting and would love to learn more about in the future.


If you are looking for quality over anything else, the obvious choice of purchase
would be Hand and Lock. However, it ultimately depends on variables such as budget, as well as authenticity. Personally, I would love to afford to purchase military braid from this company, such as
the gold mylar russia braid, however at £2.50 a metre x 20 is something that I cannot justify at this moment in time considering the money that I have already spent on my wool melton from Hainsworth. I've learnt that sometimes sacrifices have to be made if you are to a budget. I think that as my first attempt at a costume military tunic, I wouldn't be able to justify spending this money purely because as first attempts go, there is no garuntee of complete success. I think that in future if I should choose to construct another military costume I would consider spending more money knowing that I have already has the experience beforehand. As far as authenticity goes, it I choose to attempt to construct an authentic piece I will know that Hand and Lock are the best suppliers. I have learnt that for this particular project, authenticity is not really an option for me because of price as well as my lack of kowledge that would take many years training to achieve. The importance of planning is a very pivitol learning point for me here. In future I would like to think that I would definitely plan well in advance, and have researched prior to starting my project so that I know what is not achieveable and what is, and what are the factors that prohibit me from doing so, can the problem be solved? What are my other options? This is a very valuable lesson to have learnt, and alteast I have a better insight if I ever choose to do another project like this in future.

Wednesday 24 April 2013

Hussars of the Napoleonic Wars


The Napoleonic Wars 1800-1815

The uniforms worn during the first fifteen years of the nineteenth century represent the most elaborate display of pomp in the whole history of military dress. The Napoleonic wars moulded the appearance of armies throughout the entire century.
The uniforms of the European armies underwent a fundamental change in during this period in time. The leather or felt shako became the principle headdress, the cavalry were distinguished by plumed metal helmets, and the Polish Chapska. The flugel cap (mirliton) previously typical of the Hussars, disappeared. The low fur cap of the Hussars also became less common, although in France it became the distinguishing mark of the elite cavalry troops.
The basic colours of the nations had already been firmly established in the eighteenth century; blue for Prussia, red for Great Britain. The Russians were in dark green, the Austrians in white, and the French were either in white or blue. It was only after the French Revolution when the tricolour was adopted as the national flag, and the blue, white and red combination became the basis for French infantry uniform.a
After 1807 the various line infantry regiments were less commonly distinguished by different coloured markings (facings, collars and cuffs), but instead by regimental numbers on buttons and headdress. Loose linen trousers (pantaloons) also became standard for the infantry, and linen overalls with leather strapping on the inside leg for the cavalry, as well as waterproof covers for the shakos.
In many states the Hussars kept the old practice of clothing each regiment differently, and four of the thirty-one Chasseurs wore a uniform cut in the style of the Hussars. It also remained common practice for soldiers to be equipped with three uniforms: dress uniform, active service uniform, and barracks uniform. The Neapolitan Hussar Guards appeared in richly braided yellow uniforms, and they were always mounted on dun horses with white mains and tails.
Hussars were known for their individuality, and did not want to be made feel inferior. Not only was each regiment dressed in a completely different uniform, but they were also remarkable for their coloured plumes.
By 9th November 1810 Napoleon had strictly forbidden these plumes on Hussars shakos and fur caps, but the Hussars were not bothered by this. Up to the time of Waterloo in 1815 they wore plumes of every colour such as red, light blue, white, green and brown, depending on their regiments.

Appearance was also determined by circumstance. For example in 1806, there was a shortage in indigo used for dyeing cloth and so Napoleon ordered the introduction of a white uniform for his line infantry. When the importing of indigo resumed the blue uniforms where reinstated. Madder-red was later introduced by Napoleon to his infantry, however, since this cloth was not available in sufficient quantity, while white was readily available, the regiments were given white uniforms contrary to the wishes of the Emperor.
This was the same for headdresses; the shako had been introduced for the French infantry, however, they for the greater part were still wearing busbys and felt bicornes which should have been discarded. This was due to existing stock still having to be exhausted.
Shakos had initially been prescribed for the Hussars in place of flugel caps, but they were only being worn in two of the eleven Hussar regiments as the others had kept their traditional flugel caps. The Prussian Hussars still appeared at times in long coats and hats, and the colour of the Hussar breeches was often left to chance, or rather to what was available. As an example, the Gettkandt Hussars should have worn whit breeched with their dark green dolmans and pelisses, but they fought at the battle of Jena wearing red ones. When uniform stocks were low, reserve supplies were used.

Uniforms in practice were worn with so many modifications that are often difficult, if not impossible to identify soldiers depicted in contemporary representations. This is not only a problem for us today, but also one that many soldiers had to face in battle. Many of them must have perished because they could not be identified when necessary. Many regiments were mistaken on occasion
Uniforms were expensive, and officers had to pay for them out of their own pocket. The uniform of a French infantryman of the guard cost 258 francs, while the cavalryman paid as much as 517 francs. In total between 1806 and 1810, the French state alone had to pay the sum of 20,000,000 francs for the uniforms of the Garde Imperiale. Even more expensive was the uniform of the front line carabiniers that costs 2,000 francs. After the Napoleonic era uniforms became altogether plainer, with some luxuries still surviving. The nations whose funds had been exhausted as a result of these costly wars had new reduced the expenditure on uniform and cut down on their armies to save money.The end of the Napoleonic era also marked the end of an era for magnificent military uniforms.

http://pinterest.com/judah55/napoleonic-era-uniforms-weapons-equipment/



Uniforms and Badges of Rank


Many aspects of the flamboyant military uniforms of the Napoleonic period were highly impractical: the colours, especially white, the work involved to keep them up to scratch – to pipe clay belts, polish brass buttons and cap plates: the excessive weight of the brass fronted mitre caps of the grenadiers; and the terrible lack of inadequate protection against the cold and wet weather. These were all indicative of the societies that were obsessed with appearance at the expense of utility and common sense. It was not until khaki and field grey came in to use at the end of the nineteenth century that common sense began to become a significant feature of military fashion. It was not until the Second World War that real practicality was introduced into uniforms in general.
Regiments were usually distinguished by the colour of their ‘facings’; the cuffs, collars and the shoulder strap on their left shoulder and by their buttons, which were of brass or tin. Further distinction was often achieved by the colour of the waistcoats and breeches, known as the ‘small clothes’, with white, buff and yellow being the colours mostly selected. The coat turnbacks were often the same colour for all the regiments,as were the belts. Its quickly become evident to all armies that they needed to have some visible way of identifying the status of commanders on and off the battlefield. Those in command had to be easily located by messengers, staff officers and superiors. Subordinates needed to the able to recognize authority. In the early days of the richness of senior officers’ clothing sufficed, but later a formalized system was introduced.

In the sixteenth century, officers were identified by wide silks saches, worn around the waist or over the shoulder. These were originally intended to be used as hammocks or slings, in the case of an officer being wounded it would be used to carry him off the battlefield. By the Napoleonic era these sashes had significantly reduced in size. They were usually in the colours of the house and ended in heavy worsted, silk or bullion tassels depending on the wearers rank. Officers of Britain and the United States wore crimson sashes. Most general officers added gold or silver lace edging and feathered trim to their bicorns, and had elaborate gold or silver brooches to hold their national cockades. The tassels of their hat cord were also of precious metal. When full armour was abandoned, officers retained the gorget, (a steel collar to protect the throat) as a sign of office. This would be decorated with the rulers crest.

Epaulettes

The French army of the eighteenth century seems to have led the way for the general introduction of epaulettes for officers. These were usually in the button colour, and were fringed in bullion or silk according to rank. Eventually, these became a well-defined system used by most nations. The sous lieutenant wore two epaulettes, each with two red stripes along the strap, that on the left having thin fringes. The lieutenant wore the same, but the straps had only one stripe. The captains epaulettes had no stripes. A chef d’escadron (commander of a cavalry squadron) had a bullion fringe on the left shoulder. Field officers (battalion commanders, majors and colonels) had bullions on both shoulders. Generals had heavier bullion fringes and two, three four, five pointed stars in the epaulette fields. Marshals wore crossed batons in the epaulette fields. French corporals wore two diagonal bars (chevrons if the cuffs were pointed) on the forearm in the button colour and edged red. The fourier had the same bars, plus a third bar, in the button colour and on red backing on the upper arm. Sergeants had a single bar in the button colour on red backing on the forearm, and sergeant majors had two such bars. Senior NCO’s also had the gold threads mixed in their red or green epaulette fringes if in the elite companies.
Long service was shown for non-commissioned ranks by one or two red chevrons on the left arm. 

The Republican Cavalry

The cavalry regiments suffered a drain of officers following the revolution of 1789. By 1796 the cavalry was on the road to recovery and began to improve. The backbone of the cavalry was the dragoons and chasseurs a cheval.

The Carabiniers
There were two regiments of carabiniers, which were always brigaded together. Their title derived from the short musket, or carbine, with which they were armed. The uniform was originally dark blue with red lapels, collar, cuffs, long turnbacks, with dark blue grenade badges, and small clothes, but the latter were buff by 1789.
The 1st Carabiniers had red cuff flaps with dark blue piping, the 2nd had dark blue cuff flaps with red piping. The dark blue shoulder straps were edged red. The bicorn had a wide white edging and a red, drooping feather plume decorated by the tricolour cockade and white loop and button.
Small clothes were deep yellow, buttons and belts were white. The straight-bladed sword was carried in a black sheath. Saddlery was dark blue with white edging and grenade badges. The harness was black with steel fittings.

The dragoon Regiments
There were 18 regiments of the Dragoons in 1792. The 19th and 21st were raised in 1793, and 21st were disbanded in 1798. They wore a medium green coat and brass helmet with comb, drooping black horsehair crest, red plume and turban without a peak.

The Chasseurs a Cheval
There was no practical difference in the tactical employment of the chasseurs a cheval or hussars and very little sartorial difference either. Both carried the same weapons and adopted the costume of the Hungarian Hussars, although the chasseurs wore no pelisses or sabretasches. Even allowing for the large size of the French army, the emphasis on a powerful light cavalry arm is impressive.
In 1779 the first six regiments appeared in the army list. During the Revolutionary period they wore green coats, breeched with white trim, a hussar dolman, together with the infantry style crested helmet. This helmet was then replaced with the winged cap or replaced with the mirliton in the facing colour, edged in the button colour. The Hussar costume in dark green and white was retained (belts were white) but without a pelisse. Waepons were curved, hussar-pattern sabre with a brass hilt, a carbine and a brace of pistols.

The Hussars

Although light cavalry was well represented by numerous regiments of chasseurs a cheval, the French also raised six regiments of Hussars prior to 1792. The French Hussar regiments modelled their uniforms very faithfully on those pioneered by the Hungarian horsemen. This included the winged cap, or mirliton, plus the braided dolman and pelisse, each with 18 rows of buttons and lace on the chest. Some regiments wore five buttons in each row on the chest (2nd 4th 5th 9th and 10th regiments) others wore only three.
The pelisse was 20cm longer than the dolman and could be worn as a jacket in the winter. It was usually fastened by a chord and slung over the left shoulder to act as protection against sabre cuts. French hussars also wore decorated breeches, woolen barrel sash (crimson and white or yellow according to the button colour), short boots, dangling sarbetasche, curved sabre of their Hungarian counterparts. Badges of rank were chevrons in the button colour placed above the cuffs: these were worn on the dolman and the pelisse. Hussars had their own hairstyles: the usual pigtail, plus one plait of hear in front of each ear (known as cadenettes) the traditional mirliton, or peakless, winged cap, was originally in the form of a truncated cone with a long flap of cloth in the facing colour and edged with the button colour wrapped around it or allowed to fly free. In barracks the shako would be replaced by a soft cap, the bonnet de police, in the dolman colour decorated in the facing colour or the lace colour.
The pelisse bore eighteen rows each of five ball buttons and was lined with white sheepskin, edged with black lamb’s wool. It was usually worn slung over the left shoulder. The dolman was usually in the colours of the pelisse, but there were exceptions.
The Hungarian breeches had decorative knots on the thigh vents and similar braid up the outside of each leg and across the backside where there would be a loop. These were protected in the field by buttoned overalls, having eighteen buttons to each side usually in the same colours as the pantaloons and reinforced with black leather inside the legs and around the bottoms. The boots had steel screw-in spurs and the tops were cut out in the front centre, edged with white or yellow cord and had a tassel in the front cut-out.


The Imperial Hussars

The hussars enjoyed great popularity in most armies, in none so more than the French. The thing that set these light cavalrymen apart from the rest of the line regiments was their history. Originally, Hussars (meaning corsairs, pirates or raiders) were irregulars, often fighting alone. Their origins lay in the Mongolian raiders who plundered their way through Eastern Europe in the thirteenth century. These excellent horsemen scoured ahead of their main army, striking terror in to the enemy population. Part of their stock in trade was to wear wolf’s skin across their left shoulder, and this acted as a light shield as well as giving the rider a charming appearance. They wore long moustaches and cadenettes. The Molgols settled in some areas of Hungary, becoming less warlike, and influenced the Hungarians national costume which featured the dolman with typical multiple rows of buttons and lace. The wolf’s skin was replaced by the pelisse (derived from the word pelz meaning animal skin) and elaborately decorated breeches. In the wars of the eighteenth century the hussars of the Austrian army scored some notable victories over the Prussians. With their colourful and flamboyant costumes the popularity of the Hussars spread across Europe.




The Hussars uniform

The shako appeared in the Hussars from 1803. It was decorated with a regimental button, loop, and tricolour cockade. The peak was edged in the button colour and chin scales were worn with cords and a plume for parades, at the top, above the cockade, there was a pompon in the squadron colour. The cords were held at the sides of the top by hooks set in to five-pointed stars. The elite company of the 1st squadron wore bearskin colpacks with a red pompon, plume and cords. In 1813 the tall, cylindrical shako came in to service. Badges of rank were in form of the chevrons above both cuffs. The breeches, with coloured thigh knots and side seams were mostly covered on campaign with similar coloured overalls. They were reinforced with black leather closing with eighteen metal buttons on the coloured side stripe. The sabretasche was in the facing colour, decorated and edged in the button colour. There were several variants of decoration of this item: for troopers it was usually the regimental number within laurel branches under a laurel wreath. Later in the period the crown replaced the wreath over the regimental number. Officers often had the crowned imperial eagle over the number. Later in the period many regiments adopted plain back leather sabretasches with just the number in the button colour as decoration.
From 1807new-style, steel hilted sabres in steel sheaths began to be introduced. Saddle furniture was in the dolman colour, edged in decorated in the button colour usually in the regimental number. The Westphalian Hussars of the King Jeromes Guard were mostly Frenchmen and in January 1814 most of them fled back to France with him. They were designated the 13th and wore red shakos and dolmans, dark blue pelisses and breeches with yellow lace and buttons. Their nickname was “The Lobsters”.





The British Light Cavalry and the Hussars

Austria raised a regiment of the Hussars in 1703, Prussia had a hussar regiment in 1721 and several others were raised in the 1740’s. The Seven Years’ War saw many such units of the continental armies.
England was much more conservative, however, retained only regiments of horse, dragoons, and dragoon guards. There simply was no light cavalry. 


The Black Brunswickers

This consisted of an infantry regiment and a hussar regiment. The hussars wore black with light blue facings while there sashes were yellow and light blue. The shakos bore a silver skull and bones badge. 



Austrian Hussars

Hussars originated in Hungary; their title originally meaning corsair or raider. Their flamboyant costume and their reputation for daredevil acts acquired during the Seven Years War with Prussia made them immensely popular in all armies in Europe.
Naturally, the Austrian armed forces could call upon the services of considerable numbers of them, as the hussar units were the core of the Empires light cavalry.
Curing the Napoleonic period, hussars were employed as scouts, given raiding missions or dispatched to pursue the defeated enemy on the run. They performed so well in the Austrian forced of the Seven Years war that the vast majority of continental Europe raised similar units for their own armies.

The Hussars 1792-1802

The 1767 new uniform regulations were introduced. Prior to this, the hussars wore their own interpretation of Hungarian national costume. This had largely consisted of a fur colpack, with a coloured bag, a dolman (with colour cuffs and collars) and a fur-lined pelisse, both having fives rows of buttons on the chest, all linked with coloured lace with decorated breeches and short boots. The laces on the chest were the button colour for officers and for the sergeant major. 


A curved sabre and sabretasche hung from the belt. In 1767 the fur colpack was retained only by officers and sergeants. All others now wore a felt cap of mirliton. 
\
Sergeant Hussar Regiment No.10, 1809.
The twin gold braids around the top of the shako, the gold embroidered imperial cipher "FI" in the pompon and the yellow and black sabre were all badges of rank. 



Hussar Kit
1. A dolman showing the intricate lace arrangement across the chest and down the back.
2. A Pelisse, with cords to fasten it so it can be worn over the left shoulder.
3. Black leather bandolier straps and cartouche
4. Black and yellow barrel sash
5. Crimson sabrtasche showing in detail the hungarian royal crown of Saint Stephen
The shakos introduced in 1798 had black and yellow cords and flounders and these regiments were the traditional Hungarian Costume. The fur trim to the pelisses was black. Officers had black bandoliers and their shakos decorated with gold lace. Barrel sash was black and yellow; the red sabretasche was edges in black and yellow. Belts were white. In 1802 all regiments were ordered to adopted blue dolmans, breeches and pelisses with black and yellow lace with yellow buttons. They were distinguished by there shakos. 





Left: Junior Officer, Hussar Regiment No. 9, 1812.
Black shako has officers gold lace decoration. The officer wears a dark blue dolman and pelisse, gold buttons and lace, and crimson breeches. Senior officers had a second row of gold lace to the peak. The rear peak was also edged in gold.
Right: Trumpeter, Hussar Regiment No.1 (Kaiser), 1812
The red plume and swallows nests are the badges of the trumpeter. 




Russian Hussars