Tailoring of the Belle Epoque: Vincent’s Systems of cutting all kinds of Tailor-Made Garments (1903)

This book by W.D.F Vincent is based on tailoring of the Belle Epoque era, which is a hundred years after the Napoleonic Wars. However, I feel that looking in to period tailoring from whichever era I can is still relevant research. Plus, I have been finding it very difficult to find information on tailoring further back from the 19^th century. Therefore I feel that is it still important for me to obtain as much knowledge as is can from any direction.

However with that in mind, this work is a basic tailoring book that can still be used for garments covering a wide range of time. The standards of men’s suits had not been changed much since the 1870’s.The uniforms were standard from the 1880’s to the early part of World War I. The Belle Epoque was the era of opulence, the kept and the pampered. Dressing up was very important, women wore ‘pretty clothes’ and the men were ‘well-tailored’.

W.D.F. Vincent (1860-1926) is remembered mostly as being the editor of the Tailor and the Cutter, the most popular tailoring magazine of the time. He is also in connection with the ‘Cutters practical guide system’. He was a very well known cutter and teacher, and was the head of the Tailor and Cutter Academy on Drury Lane. In addition to this he was the managing director of the entire Tailor and Cutter operation from 1912 to his retirement in 1924. He is primarily thought of in connection to men’s tailoring, but in fact, he was also a very influential figure in the development of women’s tailoring as well. The ladies tailoring trade was just starting around the time that Vincent joined the staff of The Tailor and the Cutter in 1887. Vincent did not only focus on people of leisure, but also on the military, and clergy, civil servants, court and academic dress.

Vincent’s contributions to the world of fashion through the Tailor and the Cutter, plus the many books that he wrote on tailoring making him one of the most influential tailors of the period. This particular book provides an accurate record of what was worn and can be used by the historical researcher, and theatrical costumers like myself. In this book, Vincent aims at a clearness and conciseness of description, with the object of giving information in the most helpful form to those who desire to master the art of tailoring. 

Here are some examples of Military jackets from the book:

This is a Military patrol jacket, I chose this one due to the fact it has a similar looking design to a Hussars uniform. This does look more like a jacket than a tight fitting tunic, however the general uniform structural qualities can be applied to all military uniform. For instance, the shaping of the panels are common characteristics of a Military jacket; the back panel, side panel and front. You can see here the shaping of the centre front, curving out to give that prominent chest look desired for military uniform. You can also see the positioning of the canvas on the chest on the diagram. The shaping in of the panels at the waist, almost as if shaping to the body. You can see the dropped shoulder and the way that it curves to the shape of the shoulder.

As another example, again this shaping is applied to this tunic also. I notice that it is only the front shoulder seam that is shaped and the back should seem it straight; this is another thing that I will need to investigate in to as I do not know why this is the case.

In this second part of my work I have described my method of cutting all kinds of Jackets and Coats. I have first of all dealt with the qualifications necessary to succeed in the cutting room. I have illustrated the art of measuring, and have then proceeded to show how to draft out the patterns to the measures taken, so that an accurate fit may be produced for all sizes and shapes. I have illustrated and described the special features of cut and finish of all kinds of Jackets and Coats, so that with this book to refer to the cutter will be equal to all occasions.

The system described is of proved worth' it has been adopted by the Military authorities as the best for Master Tailors to study, and it is in use in thousands of cutting rooms in all parts of the world, from the highest class tailors in the West End to the Wholesale Clothing Works in different parts of the country.

W.D.F. Vincent

Here you can see they system in which measurements were taken by a tailor in the late 18th Century. 

Although the idea of drafting a period pattern from this book would be a very intriguing process, and is a method that I would really like to try in future when constructing period clothing, I felt that this would be too similar to what I had already done for my choice module - constructing a 1890's ladies street suit from an original pattern. Therefore my plan is to create my own pattern from scratch. I like this idea because I will be able to test my judgement skills by shaping the toile on the body to the desired look that resembles the style of a Hussar military tunic. I think that in future, this will be a route that I would like to take, if I choose to construct a uniform that is purely authentic, which is a task that I do not have the money for, for this particular project. Plus I have not yet accumulated all the knowledge and skills that would be required this this type of ambition. Which is why I am choosing to continue this project further after I finish this module in the hope that one day I will have developed even further to a stage where I would feel confident enough to use authentically correct techniques and fabric. At this stage I have only investigated in to the basics of tailoring, which has been a great starting point to this journey. I think that I can't have expected to obtain knowledge at the level of an experienced tailor such as Keith Levett of Savile Row's Henry Pool & Co. However, whether or not I choose to continue this area of expertise far in to the future, I will know where to benchmark myself against excellence, and use this as a guide to strive for success in this particular industry.