Admirals jacket

This was a very interesting coat to come across, as at first I thought it was a costume because of the quick change velcro, however after speaking to Graeme he informed me that it was probably an authenic piece of work. The detail around the collar, pockets and cuffs led me to believe so, I suppose when you give each uniform a good examine you can really spot the differences in a costume piece and something that is authentically made.

The lining had worn away quite substantially and I could see the wadding and the quilting technique that’s been a consistent theme in each of the tunics. This looks to me like a type of silk lining, which would have been used in officers coats as they are of a higher rank and standard. Their uniforms would be of better quality and much more expensive than regular soliders.

which I have closely examined. I think that this is a good example of why lining should probably be made out of durable fabric like the others. I would believe that military wear should be tough and able to withstand a lot. So this would be a good point to keep in mind.

Again you can see the extra thick wadding that is essential for bulking out and shaping around the shoulder.

This particular coat has a layer of canvas that was the full size of the jacket front. It then had another layer of even thicker canvas which was positioned over the chest and didn’t go as far down as the thinner layer. These two layers were pad stitched together. Both canvases also went in to the button facings. The shorter/thicker canvas had stay tape stitched to the raw edge and on to the longer/thinner canvas on top; this is a reoccurring element that could be to protect the other foundation materials such as the wadding from the rough raw edges of the thick canvas. What I also found interesting was something that I hadn’t found in the other tunics – a layer of wool positioned over the shoulder and half way down the chest and stitched to the canvas. At first I thought it was another method of protection; however when discussing this with Graeme we came to the conclusion that it could also be for extra padding and bulk.

Canvas in the cuff